These musings are the memories I've created along my travels through the world. I caught the travel bug later in my life, after moving to Ecuador for a job opportunity. Since then, I've done travel through ten countries (from north to south: Canada, USA, Honduras, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Paraguay, Chile) with many more to come. Happy reading, and feel free to leave comments and questions on posts.
Medellín... You Have My Heart
Get link
Facebook
X
Pinterest
Email
Other Apps
Peñol-Guatapé Reservoir, Antioquia
In true fashion, I did minimal planning for the February break. Not because it is the February break but because it’s how I roll when it comes to traveling. This was a unique situation though because I feel inundated with work more than ever. Right now, I am two classes away from getting my “Master’s” degree. Combined with this school year’s calendar, it has been challenging to keep my head on straight; I almost mean that quite literally. Because I am somewhat of a perfectionist, I struggle to do anything less than my best. What this has meant, in general, is sacrifice. Sacrificing vacations for lesson planning and grading, writing papers for my classes, and doing on-going research. Sure, it has made me a better teacher. A MUCH better teacher, but at some point I lost the part of my identity that goes on adventures and takes risks and is happy. Enter February. Actually, late December.
In the end of December, for both Christmas and New Years, I headed tagged along to the coast to Montañita with my dear friends Kara and Jaime. Originally, we were going to plan to go to the jungle but time got the best of us and we failed to make those plans. So the coast, it was. Rather than staying in Montañita-proper, we found some nice place to stay in the town just south of there, Mangralalto. If you want to experience what Montañita has to offer but you also want peace and quiet, consider staying in Mangralalto. I’ll spare the details about that trip but it was exactly what I needed. It was my second New Years in Montañita, and fourth in a row on a beach… That tradition will absolutely continue. White sand or white snow? Not a hard choice for me to make. This holiday is in sharp contrast with Carnaval; Carnaval definitely brought more people to the town but New Years is pure anarchy. That’s what I remembered from my first time visiting there. Fogatas up and down the beach, fireworks being lit all over the place, and people going hard like the world is ending and the one thing to do is give into carnal desires. We witnessed a couple of people get struck by flying/exploding fireworks and others OD-ing in public. If you decide to know Montañita on New Years, exercise some caution and restraint because it is just “another day.”
NYE Sunset in Mangralalto
That mini-trip was what I needed. Get out of my apartment, get out of Quito, and get away from anything work-related. Between sunning on the beach, reading three books, dancing my posterior off to an amazing electronic DJ (Dennis Cruz), I began to recharge but that was just the beginning. I need to take better care of myself for myself: mentally, physically and emotionally. This continued with an amazing breakfast-themed Wine Club, practicing Yoga for the first time at a Yoga Retreat at Casa Mojanda in Otavalo, and (as Kara called it) the “lamest bachelorette party ever.” LOL The bach-party had a few things working against it, to be fair, like Ley Seca for the referendum vote scheduled that weekend and the ever-spreading influenza. A re-do is a must. For the Yoga Retreat, I did a kundalini session… And that was the most opening experience yet. Since then, I haven’t had a dreamless night, whereas the entire year prior I hadn’t recalled a single dream. And the dreams have been getting more vivid and memorable. Yeah, I might have been drained a little. This is where Medellin comes in.
Yoga Retreat at Casa Mojanda
Like I said, I am far from a planner when it comes to traveling. I think this has always been the case, because as long as I get there what’s the worry? My trip to Medellin was a special exception because I didn’t even bother to find reasons for visiting there except I (a) may have heard it was a spectacular city, (b) I was completing homework (for my Master's) and work (for work) until hours before my flight SO ANYWHERE WAS BETTER THAN HOME, and (c) it’s in Colombia, where I have wanted to visit since I first saw Romancing the Stone as a little boy. My main objectives were to relax and explore the city, and finally begin to know Colombia. My other objective was to have long enough of a layover in Panama City, Panama to do shopping for a new wardrobe and “random” grocery shopping. [Panama, for the 24+ hours I was there was, um, what I expected. I went to the mall three times, grocery store once, and Taco Bell twice. The city smelled of urine, I was lied to or eye-rolled at more than 50% of the time, and saw the biggest rat. I also replaced one-third of my wardrobe finally and now have chunky peanut butter. It's all good.] An added benefit to traveling is it allows me to interview new cities as my next teaching destination.
Volcan Imbabura at sunset
Honestly...
I fell in love with the city right away. You could have sat me on the same park bench for a week and I would have been just as happy. Before getting into what I did, let me list the reasons why:
The city reminds me a lot of Quito, in terms of layout and physical geography. The city is nestled by montañas como dioses. This makes for a long and connected city that boasts different sectors, which are actually organized in 16 comunas. And each comuna has their own barrios with their own unique personalities. More about one comuna in particular, later.
The city is quite affordable across the board and is also a living-resource for both the Medellinense and tourists alike. Dinners out (and cocktails), grocery items (AND THE DIVERSITY OF PRODUCTS!), and other goods (minus luxury items, like bloqueador) were more inexpensive than Quito. Taxis are similarly-priced to Quito, and there is an extensive bus system. The best of all? Free WIFI in many public spaces around the city and a reliable, well-maintained Metro system. The city is HUGE (almost 3 million people) and it's kind of easy to get turned around. Thanks to the WIFI I could download my map and navigate myself... or easily ask someone. The Metro was so safe and orderly and reliable!, which brings me to the next point...
The Metro, at Estación Poblado
The people of Medellín (Paisas) are so happy, friendly and helpful. They take care of their city and land. The streets are clean. People are everywhere and on-the-go somewhere. The Metro did not have a single scratch on a window or seat nor garbage on the ground. They waited for people to exit before boarding. I struck up many conversations with Paisas on the street and they were so pleasant and interesting. AND HAPPY!
Plaza Bolivar
Paisas are also not out to kill pedestrians. Many intersections around the city do not have stop-and-go lights / semáforos, but there is SO much traffic. If you want or need to cross, just hold out your hand and drivers will voluntarily stop. And allow you to pass. Imagine that. Fun Observation: At one semáforo, the crossing light indicated to help people-in-need to cross the street. Paisas are so goodhearted.
Looking south down the Medellín River, at Estación Industriales
AND they're innovative, too! For example, RECYCLING PROGRAMS EXIST! Paisas care about their city! There are some repositories around the city where people can return plastic bottles and either get (a) cash-efectivoor (b) saldo on their Metro cards. If you want people to invest in their city and its programs, you have to invest in your people first. The democratic architecture of the city is mind boggling. This city has undergone a major transformation in the past couple of decades and I think more of the world should be looking to Medellín as a model.
Looking south, from Estación Universidad
Okay, not all of it was great. The one peeve I had was the amount of motos on the roads. And everywhere. At least in Quito, the one thing I worry about are muggers on motos. When I hear one approaching, I pay attention to how many riders there are, what they look like, how they are approaching, etc. The problem is motos are everywhere in Medellín, and I can't blame them. The road traffic is constant and sometimes congested. Motos allow riders to slip between cars and get where they need to be quicker. But it didn't stop me from being constantly paranoid about being robbed, in this sense. Especially as a solo traveler in a city I was unfamiliar with. So yes, there were situations where I was cautious... but at no point did I ever feel unsafe. I was just as cautious as I am in Quito: looking around my environment when walking or taking transportation; keeping the opening of my bag secure and in my vision; staying along main roads in unfamiliar neighborhoods; etc. And that speaks to the incredible transformation Medellín's gone through.
It's "Pico y Placa"
When I said I didn't do any research about the city ahead of my arrival, I mean it. I didn't really realize that I was going to the city made famous by Escobar. I've not seen any of the TV series about him. I don't consider myself curious about cocaine. My only real pop-culture references for Colombia were Shakira and Romancing the Stone. (<--- which is why Cartagena is the only city I must visit before I die). So, Escobar didn't cross my mind. And once it did, the thing I thought of were his former hippos that have gone wild and are terrorizing the countryside. So I only knew him as an ecological terrorist. I'm glad I had this perspective because I felt very receptive to the stories the Paisas were gracious and brave enough to share. And what I learned while on this trip is...
There is always a reason to be happy. You can survive horrible events, terrible years, and still be happy at your core.
I strongly recommend that if you visit Medellín, be open-minded and just listen. I heard stories of bombs detonating in-front of people's homes, people going missing without a trace, constant fear. And fear that continues today. But the Paisas have transformed their city from one of the most dangerous in the world to one that is opening its arms to the world. Realize that the TV series may have sexed their stories up for you. Medellín is so much more than this one person and his global influence. There's so much more this wonderful place can offer you. Things I did or places I went that I highly recommend: walk up to and around Cerro Nubitaria, eat a hotdog with cheese, chips and "salad", eat Bandeja Paisa/Cazuela Ranchera/Mondongo, stroll around the Jardín Botánico for free, eat Buñuelos, visit Parque del Periodista, check out the Botero statues in Plaza Botero or a lot of his personal and collected artwork in Museo de Antioquia, visit Exposición Explora, book a tour for "Escobar and the Rock" and bring a swimsuit 😉, take-in Guatapé and its gorgeous buildings and spaces, take the Metro Cable up to Parque Arví, book the Free Walking Tour of the centro, go out at night in Poblado. There is still so much yet to see and experience. I cannot wait to return. And yes, Medellín surpassed the interview 💚
La Finca del Escobar
Guatapé, Antioquia
The most powerful experience I had was on the free Zippy Tour of Comuna 13, which I did at the beginning of my time there. It was once so dangerous and poverty-stricken and crime-laden. I cannot do their stories justice but the amount the community has transformed since the days of Escobar is incredible. The "main draw" are the escalators, but those just help you get to deeper understanding of their history. Color, art and stories help you change how you look at the space. And even though there are some terribly sad stories, it made me feel more welcome to the city by seeing its vulnerabilities.
Promise me you'll always remember: You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think. A.A. Milne Today is the day I am officially thirty years old. 30. When I originally signed my contract in Ecuador, I knew this major life event would occur. The combination of different factors-- aging, living abroad, traveling, among others-- started me reflecting on a lot in my life. "When I was younger," I dread the day I turned 30. It's old. It's an age more likely closer to death than it is to birth. Other people think it is old. You're tied down to a job and you don't have as much freedom to travel and enjoy life. Retirement is about twice the amount of time you've lived at that point. There was a point in time where I was positive I would spend my 30th birthday in bed all day, feeling sorry for myself. My god, I thought some radically incorrect things. Life is just starting. Age = Experience. Age = Self-E...
Machu Picchu... Tourist Trap Hell of my Life This was, by far, my least favorite part of my entire trip. Again, I felt obliged to do this since I was going to be in Perú and was passing it on the way to Copacabana, Bolivia. This was the single-most arduous day of my travels. After getting a few short hours of sleep, I woke and gathered my prepacked gear and waited for an eternity for my morning pickup. After calling my tour agent a couple of times, because his instructions stated I would be picked up at 2:30 A.M. whereas I was picked up after 3 A.M., I was relieved that I hadn't been scammed out of a couple hundred dollars for something of which I was less than enthused already. The van delivered us to the train station, which is the only form of transportation aside from walking to reach Aguas Calientes. And the only way to visit Machu Picchu is to end up in Aguas Calientes. For those of you planning this adventure, do your research ahead of time. It is possible to do a ful...
"I mean how do you know what you're going to do until you do it? The answer is, you don't." Holden Caulfield, "Catcher in the Rye" By the time I was done with my week in Paraguay, I left super early for Chile. Paraguay was nice and all but I was very much looking forward to the final leg of my trip. On the agenda was to visit Easter Island, go skiing in the Andes, visit Valparaiso, and make the most out of being in a major city. I accomplished one of those things. Mural honoring the history of the Mapuche, in a subway station Honestly , I am not even really excited about writing this post because I was in a dark place at this point in the trip. I spent too much time hopping from one place to the next, and not enough time staying in one place long enough to develop relationships with others. I was also incredibly over eating meals alone and being stared at by waiters, passerby-ers, and other patrons. I downloaded a couple of apps to my phone that w...
Comments
Post a Comment